Perry Ellis SS ’93: When Grunge Got a Runway Budget
By the early ‘90s, grunge left its position in counterculture and made its way into the mainstream. From Seattle dive bars to suburban basements, plaid flannel and distressed denim had become a uniform of youthful rebellion. But when Marc Jacobs sent his Spring/Summer ’93 collection for Perry Ellis down the runway, the new grunge wave wasn’t received well in the high fashion world.
This was the collection that got Jacobs fired. And ironically, it’s also what made him a legend. At a time when luxury was still clinging to polished silhouettes and power dressing, Jacobs doubled down on the chaos of the streets. Slouchy layers, faded florals, oversized plaids, combat boots — this was Nirvana-core before it had a name, a love letter to the DIY style of kids who couldn't care less about designer labels. The show’s energy? A blend of “just rolled out of bed” and “on my way to band practice.”
There were undeniable moments of brilliance: silk slip dresses that foreshadowed the ‘90s minimalism boom, boxy blazers that felt fresh in their disheveled nonchalance, and knitwear so loose it looked like it had been passed down through generations. The styling — beanies, Doc Martens, and intentionally messy hair — felt like an inside joke to the industry, daring them to take this anti-fashion moment seriously.
But not every look hit. Some ensembles teetered dangerously close to “homeless chic,” a term fashion would later learn to grapple with. A few of the oversized proportions read less “effortless cool” and more “drowned in my dad’s closet.” And let’s be honest — grunge, by nature, wasn’t exactly crying out for a high-fashion interpretation. It belonged to thrift stores and tour vans, not Fifth Avenue.
"Where I think we're going to, is a place where everything goes," says Jacobs in the clip below. "Thats all. It's not about being locked into any one specific thing, it's being open to everything. Total freedom."
Yet, despite the backlash — Jacobs lost his job at Perry Ellis mere months after the show — history has been kind to this collection. It was a preview of what he would later bring to Louis Vuitton, where his rebellious streak and love of pop culture would redefine luxury for the next generation. SS ’93 wasn’t just about bringing grunge to the runway — it was about proving that high fashion could take cues from the real world and still feel authentic. It was a risk, it was controversial, and ultimately, it was iconic.
And today? The kids on TikTok are layering thrifted slip dresses over baby tees, stomping around in battered boots, and calling it a revival. But Perry Ellis SS ’93? That was the real deal—the moment when grunge officially went designer, for better or worse.
